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Whenever curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred venues. Yet, situated high among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant corner of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This honour has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” states a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble place securing such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, toastier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.